Paris Fashion Week Spring 2018: Denim Does the Nineties and Taps Innovation

On and around the spring 2018 runways, denim was a key story in Paris. The iconic fabric was seen in every shape, color and mood imaginable. For some, like Belgian brands Filles à Papa and Los Angeles based Jean Atelier, it was a question of style; for others, it was a space for innovation as seen with MYR and François Girbaud‘s capsule for Closed, the brand he founded in 1968. Los Angeles-based Jean Atelier, the brainchild of Citizens of Humanity founder Jerome Dahan and designer Noam Hanoch, is creating newness in the designer denim category. The brand, launched this fall exclusively at Barneys New York and FWRD Elyse Walker, was opening up to expanded distribution for spring and staged its first presentation in Paris. Inspired by denim’s Seventies heyday with just a soupçon of a Nineties edge, the collection focused on sexy, form-fitting shapes and craft finishes. Bustier bodices, patchwork cropped tops and flared jeans were a large part of the lineup, in which standouts included items using an extinct mattress-making technique to create a square grid of seams on wide jeans and a fitted waistcoat. Just a season in, the label’s collar-shaped “Flip” waistline has already become something of a signature,

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