Gabriela Hearst RTW Spring 2018

The recently reopened Pool at the Seagram Building is this season’s venue of choice for designers seeking a space in which their quietly meticulous luxury collections can bask in the simpatico glow of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and Philip Johnson’s iconic modernist, God-is-in-the-details architecture. It’s also a hot restaurant. Gabriela Hearst showed her spring collection there the day after Derek Lam used it for his show. The Pool Room itself could’ve passed for the inspiration for Hearst’s collection: Its clean lines and subtle mid-century palette coordinated perfectly with the room’s icy interiors. But, alas, she was thinking of famous men of style and how they expressed themselves within the fairly narrow parameters of classic men’s wear. Her mood board was tacked with photos of Winston Churchill, Orson Welles, Fred Astaire, Keith Richards and George Best, their style translated into clothes that painted a picture of determined women who want luxury without frivolity. In Hearst’s hands, Richard’s leopard blazer was transformed into a zebra-printed cotton canvas wrap skirt. Churchill’s waistcoat chain became a detail inset into a polka-dot silk twill dress gathered in gentle crinkles. And the sharp tailoring that has been the anchor of many impeccably dressed men’s wardrobes was feminized

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